I arrived in Dalat in the early morning after a night on the bus from Saigon. Dalat appeared in front of my eye in the beauitful ambience of a new day when the early sunlight shined through misty pine forests, stretching on the hills and going down to valley making a magical picture.
I felt very exciting when our group were picked up by ancient cars, as a part in our experience of this trip to explore Dalat’s hertiages over past hundreds of years. Ancient cars run slowly along streets in the city. I saw a modern Dalat with new buildings and houses living together with an old Dalat reflected through French colonial villas and architectural works being preserved. And I wondered how did Dalat looked at the time of 100 years ago?
Back to the past in 1893 when Doctor Yersin found Dalat in Langbian highland in his discovery. Then he felt in love with this poetic land. He convinced Governor General of French Indochina, Pauld Doumer to establish a relaxation spot for French in Indochina and his request was approved. In 1899, the Governor General made decision to establish Dong Nai Thuong Province and two relaxation spots in Langbian highland where Dalat is the centre of this land. On that time, Dalat was designed by famous French architects such as Heabra, Moncet and Lagiquet. And the most glorious developing time of French colonial architecture in Dalat was between 1930 and 1945 when French people migrated to Dalat to work and live together with their family. They came from many different regions of France and built their houses in the architectural style as their hometown’s.
Called “A Miniature Paris of Vietnam”, Dalat has nowaday inherited unique French architectural heritages with over 1,500 ancient villas and residences with a diversity of French colonial architecture, from north, central to south of France. These villas are often designed in two storeys under the styles and ideas of each owner so they are rarely duplicated. Especially, the roofs and chimney systems of the fireplace are very diverse and impressive with the impression of French countryside. The charm of the ancient villas in Da Lat is also reflected in the sophisticated and luxurious interior decoration of the owners, who are mostly the former middle class and French officials. There are many French architectural heritages in Dalat ranked by International Union of Architects in the list of 1000 unique architectural works of the world in 20th century such as Dalat Education College (Lycee Yersin), Dalat Railway Station, Palace Hotel, ancient villas in Tran Hung Dao Street and ancient villas in Le Lai Street.
One of French architectural works in Dalat that I love to visit is Da Lat Railway Station, designed in 1932 by French architects Moncet and Reveron, and opened in 1938. This place is still preserved its original architect and well-known as a symbol architect of Dalat which combined harmoniously Art Deco theme with elements of native Cao Nguyen communal houses. The station’s three roofs is said to reflect the three peaks of Dalat’s Lang Biang mountain and are also reminiscent of Normandy’s Trouville-Deauville Station. An ancient steam locomotive is still displayed here and a visiting tour by train from Dalat to Trai Mat (7km) is opened for tourists.
In the journey visiting architectural heritages in Dalat, we had a full day with interesting experience ancient villas in Le Lai Street (now renovated and known as Ana Mandara Dalat Villas Resort & Spa). This place is located in the pine forest and flower gardens where was known as a residence named Jean Oneil who was a Colonel in French Army in Indochina. The history of this place seemed to become lively in the story of each of villa built nearly 100 years ago.
After retiring in 1920, Jean Oneil decided to choose Cam Ly area in the north of Dalat to build his plantation and a dam to provide water to Jean Oneil’s Residence. Oneil invited French architect to design the whole of the residence. After that, fifteen villas were built completely here in the period between 1929 to 1938, and owned by himself, his relatives and friends who were French people living and working in Saigon and Indochina at that time.
Most of villas here were in architectural style of the south east region of France, Oneil’s hometown. In addition, designs of villas had also additional changes to be suitable for the terrain and climate condition in Dalat as well as owner’s creations.
When I stayed here, I felt as if I lived in “ancient French village” where the space reflected memories of golden past. Under the shadows of huge pine trees, villas shows its old beauty with classic yellow paint, mossy stone walls, some ancient cars parking in the front of garage, doors and windows in the shape of beautiful arches and mossy tiled roofs, typical chimmeys, big fireplaces using firewood in living room and a lot of ancient furniture and subjects displayed such as telephones, clocks, ceiling fans and gramophones.
I was really impressive with Villa No. 26 where was called “Peaceful House” because its owner put a word “Pax” (in the Latin language Pax means Peaceful) on the arch main door of the house. The owner of this villa was cheese manufacturer with trace of a cheese shop opposite to the main gate of the villa where now is surrounded by mossy stone walls and covered by creepers.
It was fascinating experience for me to stroll on the trails in the pine forest, in flower and fruit gardens, both in sunrise and sunset to watch old villas and nature surrounding which brought me with a complete relaxation. In addition, our group had an warm evening in a luxurious living room of an old villa with great French cuisine and wine.
Actually, Dalat city has changed a lot since the establising time of 100 years ago but its preserved architectural heritages are always the top attraction to travellers visiting this land.
Photos: Thanh Van
